Customer Comments

Here's the latest comments from our customers, if you've got comments that you think would be useful for others to read, you can also make a comment on the individual product or blog page.

  1. David Sainty - Monday, 11 November 2019 on product Portable Laptop Battery - Voltaic V88
    Can you do this with the Fuse 10W? I.e. the current Fuse 10W combination.
  2. Just wondering... - Friday, 01 November 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Hi! Nice hack! I have messed about with the MSZ-FD25VA with a remote marked as KM09D and one thing in the manual baffles me:

    "After you turn the breaker ON, the first remote controller that sends the signal to the indoor unit will be regarded as the remote controller for the indoor unit.The indoor unit only accept the signal from the remote controller that has been assigned to the indoor unit once they are set.The setting will be cancelled if the breaker is turned OFF, or the power supply is shut down.Please conduct the above setting once again after the power has restored."

    Does this mean that there are some type of id sent on all KM09D remotes, or does this just mean different model of a remote? I haven't found out any indication in the IR-code. What else? Oh god... different timings on the hi and low states of the pulse!? I have a working control unit which just emulates the remote, but it seems that it sometimes doesn't work as intended...
  3. Ere - Thursday, 31 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    If anyone is trying to make setting remote temperature work and just getting roomTemperature reported as 10, you might want to check out https://github.com/SwiCago/HeatPump/pull/144. This change allows things to work with my European MSZ-FH35.
  4. David Sainty - Monday, 21 October 2019 on product Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+
    No Raspberry Pi 4 in stock yet?
  5. Michal - Sunday, 13 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @TimR Having the unit turn off was my initial plan. I was just a bit worried that there might be some additional wear and tear from doing that all day. Plus I believe there is a 3 minute delay between when the units turn on and the compressor can come on again?
  6. TimR - Sunday, 13 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @Michal Really if you're going to put an esp8266 in, you could just have the unit turn all the way off when the set point is reached and not bother with the resistors. Then if your remote goes down, the unit would fall-back and work with the internal sensor.
  7. TimR - Sunday, 13 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @Michal I doubt the compressor would run forever, but yes, the fan being off, if the internal thermostat needed to be used, it's function wouldn't be optimal. Depending on where it is situated, air would get to eventually but it might not work as well. These are things to consider. I think I will put the heating resistor back on. Like you said, the heating doesn't produce the humidity and it would be good to blow the heat away from the unit when the compressor is off. I might put a switch in-line with the resistor. Then I could turn the feature on and off easier. Looking at the diagram, your control board may not have the resistors. That might be a good thing. Your fan options may be controllable through software. But they may just be labeled something different. You could try Mitsubishi Customer Care. They have given out the jumper settings to other people (they had to be persistent). Good luck.
  8. Michal - Saturday, 12 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    I've been frantically searching for JRRE but it does not appear to exist on my unit.. At least not under that name.. Or not on that control board.
  9. Michal - Saturday, 12 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @TimR I guess what I'm asking is, if the external thermostat loses connectivity or the esp8266 module fails, will the compressor stay on forever?
  10. TimR - Saturday, 12 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @Michal Yes, I agree about the heating, but I removed both anyway. The fan being on is to get a reading via the thermostat inside of the heat pump itself. If a remote thermostat is used, then the reason for the fan blowing continuously is removed. However, I have no idea if damage can occur. Use at your own risk. It's just a fan setting, but I make no guarantee on it. It's a fix I saw on the Internet. Take it for what it's worth. I can only say I've done the mod on mine and it is working, but only you can decide if you want to do this modification. Every modification carries some risk. Your call. :)
  11. Michal - Friday, 11 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @TimR I don't think it would be worth touching JR01 as when heating is required humidity is not an issue (in my experience). However, what are the consequences of cutting JRRE? My understanding is that the reason the fan turn on is to get a reading of the temperature outside?

    Is it used for anything critical? ie can damage occur in some circumstance if the jumper is removed?
  12. Michal - Thursday, 10 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @TimR Thanks for that! Very useful info.
    Found a nice diagrams starting from page 36 at https://catalogo.lowcostclima.es/download/Manual%20técnico%20aire%20acondicionad...

    I have this AC unit: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tj7zavcm3zcqb49/ac.jpg
  13. TimR - Thursday, 10 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Here's a picture of my control board and the resistor jumper block for reference.

    https://i.postimg.cc/8P8whRQN/controlboard.png
    https://i.postimg.cc/wMDXWr8H/jumpers.png
  14. TimR - Thursday, 10 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @Michal Actually, I found a hardware fix if you prefer to go that way. The option to turn off the fan when the compressor shuts off in cooling mode is controlled by resistor JRRE. For heating, it is resistor JR01. Just remove the resistors and presto, it works. Stupid Mitsubishi decided not to let the customers have an easy way to set this option for ductless units, but I can confirm this work for my MSZ-GL24NA unit. Ymmv, but it may be an solution for your unit if you want to give it a shot. Keep in mind, this should really only be done if the internal thermostat isn't used, since the fan needs to circulate air up into the unit in that case. But if using a remote thermostat, there is no need for the blower to run non-stop.
  15. Michal - Thursday, 10 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @TimR Yes, this is the bane of my existence. I only just found this project (via all that it has spawned) and previous to that I had imagined just turning the unit off once the humidity started rising.

    I believe the problem is related to the AC being too powerful for the area it's cooling. There's an excellent forum discussion about why this happens that I found this years ago when trying to understand WHY the AC would make things better before making them MUCH worse. But as with many other such things I've lost it.

    My medium term goal will be to get this working and then see if I can somehow get it integrated into esphome.
  16. Kitty Fu - Tuesday, 08 October 2019 on product Pololu - TB67S249FTG Stepper Motor Driver Carrier
    Hi Purchasing Department Manager:

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  17. Hadley Rich - Tuesday, 01 October 2019 on product PC Engines miniPCI Express Radio
    Thanks Jason, fixed that up.
  18. Jason - Tuesday, 01 October 2019 on product PC Engines miniPCI Express Radio
    Is this product in the right category? This card is currently listed as 'Electronics Gear' but the other PC Engines wireless miniPCI Express card (https://nicegear.nz/product/compex-80211abgn-minipci-express-card) is under 'Wireless Equipment'. Seems like they should both be in the same category?
  19. Hadley Rich - Tuesday, 01 October 2019 on product TP-Link 8 Port Switch - SF1008P
    Thanks Jason! Fixed now, not sure how that happened.
  20. Jason - Tuesday, 01 October 2019 on product TP-Link 8 Port Switch - SF1008P
    I think there is a typo in the description on this production.

    It's listed as
    "TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Switch - SF1008P 10/100 Switch with 4x PoE, Steel Case"
    which is somewhat contradictory - is it gigabit or a 10/100 switch? The tp-link website would suggest that it's only 10/100 and not gigabit.
  21. TimR - Tuesday, 01 October 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    @TvE - You still around? What value did you pull up your CN105 Tx line with? My heatpump is open collector also.
  22. TimR - Wednesday, 25 September 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Thanks for the hacks guys!

    The one issue I have with my Mr. Slim is that the coils get so damp that all the fan does is blow humidity in my room when the compressor isn't running. And the fan seems to run all the time.

    I have a remote thermostat so I don't need the fan blowing to circulate to the internal sensor.

    So how can I have the fan blower turn off when the compressor turns off?
  23. Hadley Rich - Tuesday, 17 September 2019 on product Tilt Hydrometer And Thermometer - Yellow
    Yes they are :)
  24. Peter O'Regan - Tuesday, 17 September 2019 on product Tilt Hydrometer And Thermometer - Yellow
    Hi. Are your Tilts the latest v3 models? Thanks
  25. Peter O'Regan - Tuesday, 17 September 2019 on product Tilt Hydrometer And Thermometer - Yellow
    Hi. Are your Tilts the latest v3 models? Thanks
  26. Hadley Rich - Friday, 06 September 2019 on product Solid State Relay (SSR)
    Hi Jaco,

    Yes this one is AC, the 10A one is DC.

    Cheers
  27. Jaco - Thursday, 05 September 2019 on product Solid State Relay (SSR)
    Is this the 25A version? Just want to make sure as it is listed for cheaper than you 10A version
  28. Allen - Thursday, 15 August 2019 on product 5A 12A Switching Power Supply
    Dear Manager

    How are you? Wish good luck to you and your family, your business.
    You will be glad to know that our price is getting down now.(because of the USD exchange rate and product update)
    For example 12v 5a Wall mount type SAA RCM power adapter new price for 500PCS is 3.99USD/UNIT.

    Free samples could be provided.
    Any further questions,please do not hesitate to inform us.
    Thanks and best regards,
    Best regards.
    Allen
  29. Hadley Rich - Tuesday, 06 August 2019 on product 12V Solenoid Valve - 3/4"
    Hey Ed,

    Unfortunately not, just this one.

    Cheers
  30. Ed - Monday, 05 August 2019 on product 12V Solenoid Valve - 3/4"
    Have you got the normally closed one that is shown in the data sheet?
  31. Ansel - Wednesday, 31 July 2019 on blog post Building 100 Arduino Vacuum Pressure Gauges
    Hi Hadley, i'm very interested with this project. Where i can email you? Thanks
  32. Alan Devine - Tuesday, 30 July 2019 on product Platinum RTD Sensor - PT1000 - 3 Wire, 1 Meter
    Pity this is 4mm diameter, 30mm long. 3D printer standard is 3mm by 20mm.
  33. TvE - Tuesday, 30 July 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    I just spent a bunch of hours trying to talk to my indoor unit (SEZ-KD09) and after banging my head against the wall I finally figured out the serial voltage thing...

    I turns out the TX of the unit is open-collector, which means that without some form of pull-up the esp8266/esp32/serial-dongle cannot receive what the unit is sending. The fact that it's OC is nice because it resolves the "is it 5v or does 3.3v work?" question. On a 3.3v microcontroller simply pull-up to 3.3v and you have a 3.3v level signal. Note that the esp8266/esp32 have an internal pull-up which can be enabled programatically.

    A tell-tale sign of all this is that without anything connected to the CN-105 cable the RX pin of the unit sits at 5V, which is due to its own pull-up, and the TX pin of the unit is at 0V, which is an unlikely state for an idle totem-pole serial output. So the TX of a 3.3V microcontroller can use a simple series shottky diode to protect it from the 5V pull-up (I didn't try to measure the pull-up resistor value).
  34. shweta - Friday, 26 July 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    good knowledge provided about heat pump.......
    very much essential as well as effective.........
    good job.......
    thanks and keep sharing.......
  35. Hadley Rich - Monday, 22 July 2019 on product 2.1mm to 1.7mm DC Jack Adapter
    I'm not sure I understand the question? Does the image help? The male end is the 1.7mm
  36. Michael thomas - Friday, 19 July 2019 on product 2.1mm to 1.7mm DC Jack Adapter
    Hi does this turn a 1.7 mm into a 2.1mm dc point
  37. Jane Atkinson - Wednesday, 17 July 2019 on product PC Engines APU 1D4
    I've been using one of these for nearly three years as a wireless router, running Ubuntu server. It's been super-reliable.
  38. Louis - Wednesday, 10 July 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Hi E,

    >why not just hack the remote control??

    If you hack/emulate the remote control, you'll be able to start/stop the heatpump, tell it to reach x temp, fan at y speed, etc, that's true. But you cannot know if the message reached it, and you cannot know which temp it senses in the room, and you also cannot know if somebody else changed the settings via the real remote. And finally (and more important for me) you cannot tell it to ignore it's temp sensor and use another data instead, which is really neat if you install a temp sensor in another room for example and you want THAT room to be 22 degrees instead of the air near the unit.

    Hope this makes sense!
  39. Hayden Perham - Monday, 08 July 2019 on product Frequency Generator Kit - FG085
    Hello,

    I require a FG085 or equivalent . Do you have any in stock and if so would i be able to pick this up. I see you are based in Timaru and i require something urgently.

    Thank you
  40. Hadley Rich - Saturday, 06 July 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Hi E,

    The main reason I started this project instead of using the remote was to get feedback about the current state of the heatpump, closed loop control rather than open.

    Cheers,

    Hadley
  41. E - Saturday, 06 July 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Howdy,

    Awesome info on controlling the mits mini split units via direct connection. Here’s the $1M question I have: why not just hack the remote control?? That was my first thought cuz they’re like $60 and you probably only need one to control many zones...

    Has anyone on this forum looked into that yet.

    Thanks,

    E
  42. E - Saturday, 06 July 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Howdy,

    Awesome info on controlling the mits mini split units via direct connection. Here’s the $1M question I have: why not just hack the remote control?? That was my first thought cuz they’re like $60 and you probably only need one to control many zones...

    Has anyone on this forum looked into that yet.

    Thanks,

    E
  43. Louis - Thursday, 04 July 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Hi Everyone,

    Posting this if it could help somebody. AL answered me via email, thanks AL!

    The setRemoteTemperature function in the SwiCago code (the c++ class) does set the current temp the unit must use to check if there is need to heat/cool the room and bypasses the internal sensor. To go back to the internal sensor, just set it to zero, and the mitsubishi will revert back to it's internal sensor to know the room temperature (not the setpoint, the actual room temp) and will then use this temperature to decide to heat/cool or not.

    So, in short, if you have a temp sensor somewhere else in the house (I put mine in a bedroom, that publishes it's readings to my MQTT broker) then the ESP8266 connected to the heatpump will invoke "setRemoteTemperature" with the readings of the bedroom sensor. If it cannot get a reading from the sensor (the sensor is offline, or the MQTT broker is offline) then it will send a zero through "setRemoteTemperature" and then the heatpump will use it's internal sensor instead. Disaster receovery!
  44. Louis - Thursday, 20 June 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Hi AL,

    First of all, thanks for writing all the code and making public what you found about the mitsubishi mini-split. Thanks to all the others who added to the available info.

    I live in Canada, and had one installed this month (MSZ-GE15NA), and couldn't wait to tinker with it. So far an ESP01 is connected to it, and I can read the status, and then modify it (COOL, OFF, set temp, etc). It is wonderful.

    This got me thinking, because I don't think the internal temp sensor on the unit is that precise. First, it only gives readings in 1C increments, and then it does seem off compared to what I can verify from the room. I'll install a second ESP01 with a AM2301 temp/hum sensor and check, but I suspect I'll see wide variations, like the ones reported here in great detail (this is a good read, particularly the comments): https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/mitsubishi-mini-split-behaving-ver...

    Then, I saw you included a setRemoteTemperature in the heatpump class in order to tell it to ignore the internal sensor. Wonderful! You wrote:

    >We discovered how to set remote temperature. This allows the user to have a temperature sensor in a diferent location than the heatpump. The heatpump will use that temperature value to determine if it has met the wanted temperature or not. This stays this way until a command to revert to internal temp sensors is sent.
    Remote temperature is good for ducted units, where attic temperatures do not match room temperatures

    This brings two questions for me:

    "This stays this way until a command to revert to internal temp sensors is sent". Do you know how to send this command? Do you know if there's a "I'm getting no updates since x time, so I'll revert back to internal sensor"? Can I just send a zero temp and it'll revert back to it's internal sensor? I'll need to test this, but maybe you already know.
    This brings us to the next question, how often should I update the remote temp? I'm thinking every minute or so would be plenty, and wouldn't overwhelm the serial interface.

    Again, thank you very much for publishing all the work, I really do appreciate it, it makes me think of the ham radio world where info is made public for everyone to tinker and enjoy.

    Louis (my name at c eler tec h dot ca)
  45. Ian Batterbee - Monday, 17 June 2019 on product ESP8266 10A 220V Network Relay WiFi Module
    Documentation for this board is available at https://ucexperiment.wordpress.com/2016/12/18/yunshan-esp8266-250v-15a-acdc-netw...
  46. William Taylor - Saturday, 15 June 2019 on product Adafruit Feather nRF52 Bluefruit LE - nRF52832
    I strongly warn against this device and in fact any device of the BLE variety.
    I purchased this device as I intended to use it in a low power consumption remote relay control system. However, even after several hours of working through documentation and example sketches I am no closer to being able to leverage the "power" of the BLE system, it's so far removed from what is now referred to as "Bluetooth Classic" that it might as well not exist as part of the standard.

    For starters, the Serial Port Protocol which previously allowed for basic string transmission using devices like the HC-05 has been removed, replaced with some bloated, higher level system which requires one to download an app onto their phone or computer, if there's no app for your platform, you're out of luck.
    Pairing is a complete nightmare, if indeed it exists at all. Devices using BLE seem to only operate in some open broadcast configuration devoid of security either by MAC validation or PIN entry. While there are references to ways to connect securly in various forums, most of the Nordic links 404.
    What was previously a low level, simple and elegant implementation of Bluetooth had been entirely bastardised into something that is simultaneously more complicated, less efficient and less feature rich than its predecessor. A single page Arduino sketch to achieve something on an HC-05 now becomes a multi source file document with several libraries, hours of headaches and resulting in a less elegant solution.

    Stay away.
  47. Louis - Thursday, 13 June 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Thanks for publishing this information! From that and this link https://github.com/SwiCago/HeatPump I was able to do it too. Now, my mitsubishi heatpump is fully controllable via a MQTT server, like my home ventilation, pellet stove and garage door. Wonderful, thank you all!
  48. Heating and Cooling Spam - Saturday, 11 May 2019 on blog post Hacking a Mitsubishi Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
    Love the article. And indeed reliability is mandatory in HVAC system.
  49. Hadley Rich - Tuesday, 07 May 2019 on product FTDI Cable 3.3V
    Hi Richard,

    Yep FTDI is a good option. I'll email you.

    Cheers,

    Hadley
  50. Richard Yates - Tuesday, 07 May 2019 on product FTDI Cable 3.3V
    Hi,
    We have a USB-To-RS232-TTL-USB-To-COM-Serial-Adapter-Cable-Module-PL2303HX-Converter/ cable that makes use of a prolific chip that is not compatible with windows 10. Would the FTDI 3.3v be a good replacement for this or can you suggest any other replacements that you may have in stock.

    Regards,

    Richard.